03 August 2011


RS FEEDS ( " MY JOB IS TOO FEED THEIR BRAINS " )


RAF SIMONS THE SYMBOLIST
AN ILLUSTRATED GUIDE
PART 1


A The term "symbolism" is derived from the word "symbol" which derives from the Latin symbolum (a symbol of faith) and symbolus (a sign of recognition) from classical Greek symbolon. In ancient Greece, the symbolon was a shard of pottery inscribed and then broken into two pieces which were then given to the ambassadors from two allied city states as a record of the alliance. The Raf Simons universe is an archaeological site cloaked with shards of pottery broken into pieces,which, to be fully understood, necessitates an excavation process looking for the missing halves, the absent artefacts that suggest this alliance, as "at the heart of symbolism is the power of suggestion as opposed to statement, the image of the flower being more present for being absent from the bouquet. " ( Mallarmé, Crisis in poetry).






TOP LEFT RAF SIMONS TEENAGE SUMMER CAMP T-SHIRT CLOAKED WITH SHARDS OF MARTIN MARGIELA WAISTCOAT. PHOTOGRAPHY WILLY VANDERPERRE. TOP RIGHT ALICJA KWADE, UNTER ANDERER BEDINGUNG, 2008, DISRUPTED HOTEL SILVER PLATE. BOTTOM (ALL THREE)JONATHAN SCHIPPER, THE INHERENT BEAUTY IN A FAILED ATTEMPT TO RECONSTRUCT, 2008. COLLAGE BEGÜM SEKENDIZ BORÉ







B The presence or absence of artefacts can often be suggested to a more or less high degree of probability by the use of GPR ( ground-penetrating radar ) that detects the reflected signals from subsurface structures. The understanding of finer features however requires excavation through the adequate use of augering: Below is the Raf Simons mirror brooch, which, similar in structure to the table on the wall pictured above, is a handheld auger that stands on legs and drills holes to excavate through. "Those who read the symbol do so at their peril. It's the spectator, not life, that art really mirrors. " Oscar Wilde




TOP LEFT MICHEL AUBRY, 'PLAN PARTITION', 1988-1989, INSTALLATION ART SONORE.TOP RIGHT RAF SIMONS T-SHIRT PATTERN. BOTTOM RAF SIMONS MIRROR BROOCH. COLLAGE BEGÜM SEKENDIZ BORÉ







C In the symbolist manifesto published in Le Figaro on 18 september 1886 , Jean Moréas explains that symbolism's goal is " to clothe the ideal in a perceptible form " That's what Raf Simons does. Symbols are not allegories intended to represent; they are intended to evoke specific states of mind : Raf Simons doesn't wear his hearts on his sleeve, he wears his house on his chest instead. Le Corbuiser himself was obsessed with symbolism. " seek and you shall find." he said. "look into the depths of the work and ask yourself questions'' The scheme at Ronchamp in the picture below was the result of ''meticulous research' involving the continual adjustment of a thousand factors which no-one ought or would wish to speak of. Le corbusier disguised his symbolism, leaving it available only to those 'with eyes to see'. '' The requirements of religion had little effect on the design of Ronchamp. 'The form was an answer to the psycho-physiology of the feelings."





LEFT JIL SANDER A/W 2011 // RIGHT THE CHAPEL OF NOTRE DAME DUHAUT, 1954, LE CORBUSIER. COLLAGE BEGÜM SEKENDIZ BORÉ







D Under every stone one steps on, lie lines of strata to read between. Under each sole of each pair of shoes rest messages from another's soul. " Shouldn’t there be some things, fashion included, that you can enjoy as creativity, as a message that requires thinking over? I’d like there to be time for that again. I mean, in the end the consumer will decide. We can only suggest. " Raf Simons

Symbolists suggest.





TOP BARRAGAN HOUSE, MEXICO CITY, 1948. BOTTOM BEGÜM SEKENDIZ BORÉ WEARING JIL SANDER S/S 2008 FOOTWEAR.COLLAGE BEGÜM SEKENDIZ BORÉ

sources: Journal Of Architectural Education, Vol 53, No 2, November 1999. Manifesto, A century of isms , Mary Ann Caws

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